IDENTITY AND CULTURE IN CAMPOS DE CIMA DA SERRA (RS): practices, know-how, and lifestyles of Serrano cheese-producing ranching families

Abstract

Situated in the northeast of the State of Rio Grande do Sul (RS) - Brazil, Campos de Cima da Serra is a traditional cattle ranching region, recognized as a primary economic activity. In addition, the small rural families have also developed a handmade production of a characteristic regional cheese: Serrano cheese. The secular tradition of Serrano cheese production was forwarded across generations with small changes. In spite of the cheese’s historical, economic, and cultural importance be preserved, the traditional producers have seen their know-how be appropriated by other producers - those “better adapted” from a technical and economic point of view. This paper aims to document this dispute, showing how the traditional producer families of Serrano cheese created a system of classification to identify and differentiate themselves from the other cheese producers. In this context, the paper also aims to analyze the public policies currently pursued by the State in order to protect the know-how, culture and lifestyle associated with the handmade production.